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Comment determiner son type de cheveux ?

Everyone has heard famous sentences such as "I have 4C type hair" or "Type 3 hair blah blah blah....". Unfortunately, most of us don't understand what it means...

What is this classification? Who created it? How can one determine one's hair type? The answers to all your questions can be found below 

This hair classification was created by André Walker, an American star hairstylist. It was first mentioned in his book "Andre Talks Hair" in 1997 (yes, it goes way back ...)

André Walker created this typology to classify his hair type and thickness. 

He believed it would make hair maintenance easier by identifying the specific needs and care required for each hair type.


So What are the different hair types? Let's get straight to the point! 

This classification has two main criteria: a number ranging from 1 to 4 and a letter from A to C.

The number defines the hair type and the letter defines the sub-types of hair in this category.

We made a table for you to make things easier to understand: 






  • Fine / very fine hair

  • Tangles easily

  • Greasy by nature

  • Difficult to curl


  • Mix of fine and thick hair 

  • Greasy by nature

  • Difficult to curl


  • Thicker, heavier hair

  • Curl resistant

  • Greasy by nature

  • Easier to curl


  • Fine hair

  • Small S-shaped waves

  • Low volume


  • Somewhat thick hair

  • More defined S-shaped waves

  • Slight frizz on the scalp


  • Thick hair

  • Voluminous

  • Well-defined S-shaped waves


  • Curly hair

  • Loose and relaxed curls

  • The "heaviest" hair category of type 3


  • Very defined S-shaped curls

  • More wavy roots

  • Tighter curls than 3A


  • Curly hair

  • Small, defined and tighter curls that start at the root.

  • On the border between curly and frizzy hair


  • Hair curls from the root

  • Very voluminous

  • Spiral-shaped curls

  • Slightly defined


  • S-shaped waves

  • Thinner than 4A

  • Dense hair

  • More fragile


  • Thinner and more fragile

  • Z-shaped curl

  • Quite heavy because of very tight curls

  • The most fragile of type 4


We suggest taking a look at one of your hairs in order to determine its type. You can also have several types of hair 🡪 for example, you can have type 4a hair on the front of your head and type 4b/4c hair on the middle of your head.


What are the specific needs of each hair type?

- Type 1 includes straight hair.

Straight hair is shiny because sebum (natural oil/lipid film produced by our hair) "moves easily" to the tips. As a result, it tends to become greasy faster than other hair types. Their specific needs: Scalp cleansing to reduce greasy hair and light hydration of the entire lengths.

Type 2 includes wavy hair.

The hair is thicker but it also remains shiny (but less than type 1).

The main problem: DEFINITION! The waves/curls are not well defined if the care is not properly done. 

Their specific needs: Moisturization of the lengths, using light care textures to avoid weighing down the hair 🡪 Guaranteed definition  


Type 3 includes curly and frizzy hair.

Curly and frizzy hair is thick with rather loose curls. 

Having curls means that your hair sometimes gets dry because oil doesn't flow properly to the tips. As a result, it looks less shiny, more fragile and prone to frizz.

Leurs besoins : Remplacer le rôle du sébum 🡪 Hydratation ++ en favorisant des soins aux textures ni trop légères ni trop épaisses. 

L’hydratation est la clé pour des cheveux brillants, définis et souples. Ne surchargez pas vos cheveux de produits hydratants car ils peuvent alourdir vos boucles.

On préfère une routine capillaire simple à suivre composée de 5 produits MAXIMUM afin d’apporter une hydratation durable tout en respectant leur forme ☺


Le type 4 regroupe les cheveux crépus.

Les cheveux crépus sont bien connus pour le « shrinkage » qui correspond au fait que les cheveux paraissent beaucoup plus courts qu’ils ne le sont vraiment. 

Ils ont des petites boucles en forme de Z très serrées, ce qui les rendent secs, fragiles et parfois cassants. Ce sont des cheveux qu’on doit chouchouter car ils peuvent se casser si on n’en prend pas soin.

Leurs besoins : HYDRATATION +++++++ en favorisant des soins aux textures épaisses car c’est un cheveu demandeur en eau.

On utilise des soins hydratants à chaque étape du Wash Day (ex : shampooing protecteur et hydratation, masque hydratation en profondeur etc…)  pour éviter qu’ils se dessèchent et donc qu’ils se cassent. L’hydratation est le moment FONDAMENTAL de la routine car sans celle-ci, vos cheveux ne seront pas rebondis et souples.

Nous conseillons d’utiliser la méthode LOC : Liquid Cream Oil ou Liquide Crème Huile.

Celle-ci correspond au fait d’utiliser un leave-in conditioner liquide pour nourrir les cheveux en profondeur, puis une crème afin d’ajouter une hydratation en plus et une huile pour sceller toute l’hydratation que les cheveux ont reçu.

Vos cheveux vous remercieront ! 

Nous espérons que cette classification semble plus compréhensible et accessible pour vous.


A la prochaine, 

L’équipe AfroBrush.

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